May 29, 2007: Arrived in Jaipur

I arrived to Jaipur yesterday evening. We flew KingFisher air - "Flying the Fun Times!" The motto isn't a lie - the entire KingFisher experience was a treat. American Airlines could learna thing or two from them.We arrived in Jaipur around 7:15 pm. After getting our bags, we found a cab driver who spoke enough English to make sense of my instructions to Nikhil's house. Nikhil is my friend from Wharton. He is Indian American, who was born and raised in New York but has family in Jaipur. When I told him I would be travelling to India, he insisted I stay at his home there. I'm very glad I accepted the offer. After finding his neighborhood, we spent a good 15 minutes driving up the street searching for house number, B-8. I had no clue what to expect. Looking out the window, I spotted a small palace with beautiful pink stone, a large gate and an elaborate front door. I glance at the sign out front - "B-8, Nikhil and Neeha (his sister) Surana. As we pulled up to the home, we were greeted by his two servants, neither of which speak English, and his very old and very, very small grandmother, who we call grandmami. She doesn't speak any English either. Once we got our bags inside the foyer, the five of us, unable to verbally communicate stood in a circle smiling and saying hi over and over again. David and I gave a big American thumbs up and they responded with the standard Indian head bob. After a good ten minutes of this slightly amusing situation, we were shown our rooms. We settled in and then Grandmami, gesturing by putting her hand to her mouth, insisted upon feeding us dinner. Tummies rumbling, we gladly accepted the offer, not knowing what was in store for us. The family is pure-veg - no meat, no fish and no eggs. which made dinner strange but surprisingly good. For dinner, we had potato parantha (picture a thick potato and flour tortilla) with a side bowl of yogurt that was mixed with pepper and salt to be used as a spread. We also had a pickled pea / spice topping and then a side of ketchup to add even more flavor. I don't know if I mentioned it, but Indians have a real obsession for ketchup. I've pretty much seen them eat it with everything. There is even a type of Lays potato chips that is ketchup flavored. Anyway, back to my story, we were seated in kitchen and presented with a modestly sized dinner - or so it seemed. Watching my every move, after every bite I took, Grandmami leaned in closely to see my reaction. Not wanting to disappoint her, I gave her a big smile in approval. She returned an even larger grin and look of genuine happiness. Every couple of minutes, she would look at me very closely then look at my plate, say a few words in Hindi, nod her head and then mak sure my plate was full. Seeing how much satisfaction Grandmami derived from feeding me, I couldn't help but keep eating (not wanting to be rude). She was the Indian epitome of a cute and caring grandmother - never wanting her children to go unfed. So I ate and I ate and I ate, and immediately upon scooping a bite of yogurt into my mouth, Grandmami scooped another serving onto my plate. It felt like the meal that never ends. Completely stuffed, I polished off the final potata parantha, figuring, well it must end here since there is nothing left to scoop the yogurt with. But oh no, I look to my left and Grandmami had already put Sohan (one of the servants) to work rolling out dough to make more bread. Finally, after eating about two or three more pieces of bread, several more servings of yogurt mixed with ketchup, I had to call it quits. Grandmami was happy as I pointed to my stomach and puffed up my cheeks signaling that I was full rather that I was stuffed! After smiling and bowing in thanks, I retired to my quarters for a good night's sleep. As I have come to expect, everywhere I go in India, I have been treated like a king. Everyone has been absolutely amazing, hospitable, gracious and kind. Grandmami couldn't be sweeter. Can't wait to tell you all about my adventures in the Pink City tomorrow.